If the end edge of the pick is parallel to the shaft, the pick has neutral clearance. The pick's hold for self-arrest is affected to some degree by its clearance (fig. Teeth on the pick provide grip for ice and hard snow. A sharper angle of 55 to 60 degrees is better for technical ice climbing as it coincides with the arc followed by the axe head when it is planted in steep ice. A moderate hooking angle of 65 to 70 degrees from the shaft is right for general moun Fig. 12-2) is curved or drooped, a design that provides better hooking action in snow or ice, causing the axe to dig in faster when you're trying to stop yourself ( self-arrest) after a fall. Although the hole in the head of the axe is commonly called a carabiner hole, most climbers attach their wrist leash through it. The head of an ice axe-which includes the pick and the adze-is usually made of steel, a material strong enough for snow and ice climbing. These specialized axes are covered in Chapter 14. For ice climbing, the axes get shorter still and other design aspects become more specialized, such as the droop of the pick, placement of the teeth, and shape of the adze. You'll probably want a shorter axe for the steeper slopes in alpine climbing. A longer axe may be OK for crosscountry travel and scrambling, where it's used as a cane and to provide security in low-angle climbing. The design of an ice axe often is a trade-off between features that make the tool better for particular uses. But its main role is in snow and ice travel, where it provides balance or a point of security to prevent a fall and serves to stop any fall that takes place. Below the snow line, it's used for balance, as a walking cane, and to help brake going downhill. The modern ice axe is an inherently simple tool with many uses. Parts of the ice axe and the skill to use it, you can can venture onto all forms of snow and ice, enjoying a greater variety of mountain landscapes during more seasons of the year. Without it, safe alpine travel is restricted to easy scrambles. 12-1) is one of the most versatile and important pieces of mountaineering equipment a climber owns.
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